Sewing and Fitting some Thurlows

So, one of my Fall/Spring Essentials Sewalong goals was to make some wearable shorts. Finding well fitting shorts is nearly impossible at shops, so this is one area which is really worth spending the time on and getting right.

I started with the Thurlow pattern. I’ve been doing more reading on shape lately and I’m finally comfortable describing myself as pear-shaped, so Sewaholic is the best starting place for me. I know the best advice is to sew a muslin first, but I really wanted to practice the skills as well as the sizing, so I decided to make a wearable muslin – a part of shorts which I’d keep for around the house.

Making the shorts was surprisingly straight forward. I highly recommend Lladybird’s sew-along, though I wonder whether there’s a master list of the links somewhere since it was a bit annoying to go looking for the next part as was needing to scroll through the tagged posts. I ended up with a nice pair of standard sized pants, an excellent place to start working out sizing from – plus the feeling of accomplishment!

Thurlow muslin making1 Thurlow muslin making2 Thurlow muslin making3

When I tried them on, I could honestly say they were the best fitting shorts I’d worn in years – but this is an extremely low mark to be working from! The clever adjustable back seam meant I was able to get a good hip fit and a good waist fit (though I could go slightly tighter to allow for the pants to ‘wear’ during the day) and they were comfortably higher than most pants I can buy. I could sit down without butt-crack showing! It was novel.

However- and this is a big however – there’s some fitting issues I need to sort out just to get a pair which looks decent in public.

(Apologies for the coming photos. There’s post baby-belly and some uncomfortable shorts bagginess . . . )

Thurlow muslin 2

I’m referring to a few resources to work out the fitting issues and the solutions. I’ll try a couple of things first and if they don’t help, I’ll go back and try some other things out! One resource I’m using is Colette’s Pants Fitting Cheatsheet. The bagginess is the first thing you can see there – despite having a post baby pudge, right underneath is flat. Bodies are just weird. So, I’m going to try an adjustment for a flat lower belly there. I might need to do some more ‘front of shorts’ work as well, but I think I’ll muslin this change and the bum changes first.

Thurlow muslin 3

Oh, reminder to clip your threads before taking photos of your bum!

I was expecting to have fitting issues around my bum, but unlike the front, these seem really easy to diagnose. I have a full, low bum – so a lower crotch curve and a full bum adjustment are excellent places to start.

The next couple of makes with be pure muslins, not wearable ones. Lladybird’s muslin post has a handy list of which pieces of the Thurlow you actually need to cut out to check fitting, which makes that part of it much much easier. I promise to take some photos too – hopefully with less wrinkles in strange places!


2 thoughts on “Sewing and Fitting some Thurlows

  1. Pingback: Fitting Thurlows: The Post-Alteration Muslin | Subversive Reader Makes Stuff

  2. Pingback: Wearable Thurlow Shorts | Subversive Reader Makes Stuff

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